SHANTARAM
My friend Saroop said that “Shantaram” by Gregory David Roberts was a book that everyone who loves India should read…I agree. Not only that, but it is a hilariously entertaining and educating book. It is about an escaped convict from New Zealand who takes refuge in a slum of Mumbai. It is a 933 page book, I am 371. The following are a few more of my favorite quotes so far.
“There was an anouncement. It might have been in English. It was the kind of sound an angry drunk makes, amplified through the unique distortions of many ancient, cone-shaped speakers… (Roberts 100)”
Setting: the Victoria Terminus train station, Mumbai
I recently discovered the the only way to find out accurate information at a train station in India is by asking a coolie. They know everything. The catch is you have to know a little Hindi to be able to ask them your question and understand the answer.
“As the minutes passed I relected on that particulary Indian custom of amiable abduction (Roberts 185).”
In my experience people say, “Come.” You ask, “where?” “why?” and they say “Just come.”
Then there was the time that a friend sent a hired bear to give Linbaba (as the main character is affectionately called)a hug. But let me start at the beginning of the incident:
“We stood together for a moment, and then he reached out impulsively and enclosed me in a warm, bearish hug. I laughed as we came apart, and he fowned at me, clearly puzzled.
‘Is it funny?’ he (Abdullah) asked.
‘No,’ I reassured him. ‘I just wasn’t expecting a bear hug, that’s all.’
‘Bare? Do you mean it is naked?’
‘No, no, we called that a bear hug,’ I explained, gesturing with my hands as if they were claws. ‘Bears, you the furry animals that eat honey and sleep in caves. When you hold someone like that, we say you’re giving them a bear hug.’
‘Caves? Sleeping in caves?’
It’s okey. Don’t worry about it. I liked it. It was…good friendship. It was what friends do, in my country, giving a bear hug like that (Roberts 213).’
……a month later…..
A bear with her handlers comes to Lin’s door. The handlers who are painted blue from head to foot tell him that they have a message for him, but they will not tell him what it is or who it is from until he hugs the bear. The crowd starts shouting “Karo, Karo, Karo” (Do it! Do it! Do it), and he has no choice but to hug the bear–which is so big that it knocks him over. But the bear is quite tame. Lin is then handed this note:
“My Dear Brother,
Salaam aleikum. You told me that you are giving bear hugs to the people I think this is a custon in your country and even if I think it is very strange and even if I do not understand, I think you must be lonely for it here because Bombay we have a shortage of bears. So I send you a bear for some hugging. Please enjoy. I hope he is like the hugging bears in your country. I am busy with business and I am healthy, thanks be to God. After my business I will return to Bombay soo, Inshallah. God bless you and your brother,
Abdullah Taheri (Roberts 235).
Three Cups of Tea
So over New Year’s I was in Shimla freeezing with the rest of Delhi who ascended upon the quaint mountain town, but I was reading the most incredible book: Three Cups of Tea. Please buy, read it. Learn, love it. It is able Greg Mortenson a mountainer who fails to summit K2 but stumbles upon a village in need of a school and ends up spending his life building schools for girls (and boys) in villages Pakistan. It is a beautiful, inspiring book. Check out the website. http://www.threecupsoftea.com/
It is a must read for people traveling to this part of the world.
Where is home?
I am feeling homesick. The problem is that I don’t know where home is. They say that home is where the heart is…if only that was a simple answer. Perhaps there is something about only being a month away from returning to the U.S. that has me longing for my home land. This last nine months has been my longest time away from the States. My mom has taken a vow to see if she can go the entire time in the U.S. without having rice. She is over it. It is hard to know if it is better to talk to more people from home, eat more french fries, drink coke, drink wine, look at In Style Magazine or if it is better to put all of that aside for a few weeks and just throw myself in the water. Maybe if I do nothing that reminds me of home, I won’t miss it so much. The weird thing about this is that just last year I was in Jersey and went I felt home sick I’d make chai or Indian food.
I started reading this book last night called The Christ of the Indian Road by E. Stanley Jones. As a foreigner who committed his life to India this is what he wrote
I felt that we who come from a foreign land should have the inward feeling, if not the outward sign, of being adopted sons of India, and we should offer our message as a homage to our adopted land; respect should characterise our every attitude; India whould be home, her future our future, an we her servants for Jesus’ sake.
A few months ago my friend Hena who is an N.R.I. (Non-resident Indian) told me that I was a real American Desi. I was flattered. I love India. But can I bind myself to India as Jones suggests? Should I? Is this my calling?
I write this as I am preparing to go home for five weeks. Then I will return to India for at least six months. I will always love India, but is living here my vocation or season of my life? I do not know. Yes, though some of my friends may not believe it I am a “J” (on Meyers-Briggs). In other words, I like to make plans. I like to know what is next.
Travel Author William Dalrymple: Bringing History to Life through Travel
December ended as it had begun, both bleak and cold.
On New Year’s night the poor huddled in primeval groups under the flyovers. You could see them squatting on their hams silhouetted around bondfires; sometimes one of the figures would throw a lump of dried buffalo-dung on to the flames. Nearby, the Golf Links and Chanakyapuri, the rich were celebrating. As midnight drew near, they burst balloons, popped champangne corks and tore around Delhi honking the horns of their new Marutis. At the traffic lights, as outstretched palms were thrust through open car windows, the two worlds briefly met. (Indian Edition, 151)
For the last month or so I have been hooked on William Dalrymple’s City of Djinns: A Year in Delhi. This book is an autobiographical account of a Scottish man’s time in modern Delhi where he lived with his wife and investigated the history and culture of the city. As I am living in Delhi I can relate to his experience as a foreigner and I am intrigued by his explorations. But anyone who is interested in travel, history, and enjoys a clever prospective would enjoy this book. Each day I am taken back into the Mogul period and am shown why things are the way they are in modern India. Dalrymple points out that “All the different ages of man were represented in the people of the city. Different millennia co-existed side by side. Minds set in different ages walked the same pavements, drank the same water, returned to the same dust.”
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Then today I went to the English Book Store at Connaught Place to search for a copy to send to my brother who is living in China (English books are so hard to come by there that the ex-pat community passes around every book they find) and found Dalrymple’s first book In Xanadu: A Quest. Dalymple
wrote In Xanadu while he was still studying at Oxford…he received a grant from the institution and went on journey following the quest of Marco Polo from oil from the lamps at the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem to Kaunas Kan in Xanadu (North East China).


The following is written out of the struggle of how to live in a place where poverty is everywhere with the frustration of knowing many people who are so calused that they do not see the street people. Even being in my second year I find myself less apt to feed a random street kid. It is great to be with Abby who is in her first few month here, because she wants to feed and talk to almost every street kid we encounter. If we buy street food for ourselves within a few minutes we have given it away and we have to order more (luckily it is cheap enough that we can afford to buy more).
I saw a whole movie based on this senareo, it’s called “Traffic Signal.” In the movie the people seemed happy to be living out their existence of the generosity or lack there of—of the people who stopped at their traffic signal. And, I know there is truth there in that film. I know people fake. I know people, those people make up sob stories. Homeless people in the U.S. do that too. But I also know that a few weeks back when I my frineds and I made some hot food and we went to the local traffic signal/flyover to feed the beggars, they ate like they were hungry—very hungry. Have you ever seen a hungry person eat?
If you like intense movies and have a heart for India, Water is a great film. It takes place in 1938 before indepedence and shows the liberation of widows from a secluded life of oppression. Plus you get to see one of Bollywood’s heart throbs, John Abraham in a role that doesn’t include lip singing and dancing.